CarTroubleHelper — Your Auto Repair Companion

What's happening:
The engine is making more heat than the cooling system can remove. This is usually low coolant or a thermostat that isn't opening — not automatically a blown head gasket. Stay calm and let the engine cool before checking anything.

Drive Safety: RED — Do not drive until the engine cools. If the temp rises again, stop immediately and tow.

What to tell the mechanic:
"The engine overheated. I let it cool down. Please check coolant level and look at the thermostat and radiator hoses first, then the water pump if needed."

Typical cost range:
Thermostat & coolant: $120–$350 • Hose & clamp: $90–$220 • Water pump: $380–$800

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What's happening:
To start, the engine needs battery power, fuel, and spark. The sound it makes when you turn the key usually points straight at which one is missing. Listen to the click, the speed of the crank, and the dash lights — they tell the story.

Drive Safety: GREEN — Once it starts, driving is fine. Issue is the starting/charging system, not driving.

What to tell the mechanic:
"The car won't start. Please check the battery and connections first, then the alternator and starter if needed. No other work today."

Typical cost range:
Battery: $90–$260 • Alternator: $350–$900 • Starter: $300–$650

What to Check First:
1. Check battery terminals for looseness or corrosion.
2. Check interior lights — dim = weak battery.
3. Turn key and watch dash — lights dropping out = bad connection or battery.

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What's happening:
The engine lost either electrical power or fuel pressure. If the dash lights all came on when it died, the battery/alternator dropped out. If it coughed or stumbled before shutting off, it's likely fuel-related.

Drive Safety: YELLOW — May run briefly if restarted, but stall risk remains. Drive only to the nearest shop.

What to tell the mechanic:
"The car stalled while driving. The dash lights came on. Please test the charging system first, then check fuel pressure and the crankshaft sensor."

Typical cost range:
Alternator: $350–$900 • Crank sensor: $180–$420 • Fuel pump: $450–$1,400

What to Check First:
1. Turn key and see if dash lights come back — if not, alternator/charging issue.
2. Restart and listen — stumble or cough = fuel problem.
3. Check for loose battery terminals under the hood.

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Drive Safety: YELLOW — Short distance is okay unless it's an electrical burning smell. Electrical = RED (stop and tow).

What to tell the mechanic:
"I'm getting a burning smell. Please check for an oil leak onto the exhaust, coolant steam, and any electrical hot spots or melted wiring."

Typical cost range:
Valve cover gasket: $180–$480 • Coolant leak repair: $120–$450 • Electrical short/repair: $120–$400+

What to Check First:
1. Look around valve cover and exhaust for oil leaks.
2. Check coolant reservoir level.
3. Smell near alternator/wiring — sharp burn smell = electrical short.

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What's happening:
The tire lost air quickly or slowly, but the wheel and suspension are fine in most cases. Stay calm, get to a safe flat spot, and change or inflate. Slow leaks usually come from nails or bead leaks; sudden blowouts come from sidewall damage.

Drive Safety: RED — If the rim touches the ground, don't move the car. Use the spare or call for a tow.

What to tell the mechanic:
"I have a flat tire. I need repair or replacement and a quick check of the wheel and valve stem. No extra services today."

Typical cost range:
Tire repair: $20–$40 • New tire installed: $85–$180 • Tow (local): $60–$120

What to Check First:
1. Look at sidewall for cuts or bubbles.
2. Check tread for nail or screw.
3. Inspect rim edge for bends.

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